Radio Go Box FAQ
Do I need a license to buy this radio?
Make sure to read the FAQ on radio basics here. The same rules apply for all amaetuer radios such as these. There is no license requirement to buy or own the hardware, but a license is required to transmit. Listening on your radio is perfectly legal (and great tool for studying and learning). There are also some provisions specifically outlined that allow you to transmit in emergencies (FCC §97.403) when no other means are available.
What is this radio best suited for?
First and foremost, as a rugged, compact, and highly portable radio that can be used for emergencies.
I use my own RGB most often at home in my office sitting on my work desk plugged into an antenna on my roof. However, since it is designed primarily as a portable radio, it does not have an AC power supply for a traditional wall outlet in your home and will need a battery charge controller (see the product page for the plugs you will need).
The beauty of the compact design means that paired with the right antenna, you get a lot of power in a small package that can be used at home, on the road, or while camping.
Is this a repeater?
No, this a 25W dual band portable radio that can be used to hit repeaters and communicate directly with other radio operators in simplex and duplex modes. But, the basics of what a radio repeater is can be found here.
How do I operate this radio?
Some of the most basic and important functions are:
Turning the radio on: Use the main black power switch on the panel to turn the radio on and off. The radio will power on automatically.
Scanning: Push and hold the scan button on the mic keypad to begin cycling through programmed channels. The radio will stop for 5 seconds if it hears a signal. Press the right dial button or the scan button again to stop scanning.
Selecting channels: Rotate the dial on the right to cycle through programmed channels. The UP/DOWN buttons on mic keypad can also be used to cycle through channels.
Adjusting the volume: Rotate the dial on the left to adjust your speaker volume.
V/M: Switches between channel mode and frequency mode. The “D” slot on the bottom of the radio screen should always display a frequency and not a channel name, this is handy for entering frequencies on the fly while still monitoring normal channels.
EXIT ABCD: This moves you down the four channel lines to transmit on your prefered channel. The selected channel is indicated by an arrow. Since the radio has a quad-monitor function, the radio will automatically switch to whichever channel last received a signal. Always be aware of which channel your are actively controlling to avoid mistaken transmissions. Quad monitoring can be turned off in the menu.
MONI: This button cancels your squelch (A filter that only opens when a clear signal is heard) and can be used to gauge speaker volume.
Transmit: The mic keypad has a large button on the side. Use this button to “key up” or transmit. Only use this button to operate your radio with a ham license. Do not key up your radio without antenna attached. Hamstudy.org has some of the best resources for this and makes the process very easy with their study app.
Why doesn’t the power switch light up?
The radio was designed with nighttime or covert operation in mind. For this reason, beeps are turned off (with the exception of powering on), the screen is black, and as many lights have been removed as possible.
How do I know the state of my battery?
The RGB was designed to be lightweight and minimalist. For this reason, a digital voltmeter was not included in the design (this frees up space for charging ports). As such, you’ll need a simple multimeter to check the voltage which indicates the expected run time of the battery. The battery should start at around 13.3v and end at around 12.1v. Some battery charge controllers can also tell you the percent of the battery’s charge. The battery indicator on the radio’s screen does not give you a reading of the battery’s condition.
Over the last 6 months of average use at home and out in the field, I have not had the battery die on me during the day. The radio can receive a constant signal for more than 24 hours at a lower volume. Transmitting time will depend on your power output, frequency, and length of communications.
My recommendation is to charge the battery fully before taking the radio on the road.
Why is the RGB expensive?
Many things. The cost of materials in small batch (thanks to COVID and supply chain shortages) are high on the components. I also don’t cheap out on anything. The radio is designed to be rugged and should last. Just the on/off switch alone costs $10 because it is made in America.
The cost of time — Each unit is built by hand and takes around 40 minutes to cut, wire, and assemble carefully.
The cost of research and development — the finished product you now enjoy is the result of dozens of designs, prototypes, test components, and test combinations to find the ideal set of capabilities in a small, perfectly-fit package.
I want to offer a personal thank you to everyone who recognizes the value in our products, and buys an RGB to support a small (but passionate) business that builds each product with care.
Why does the radio use Anderson Power Poles for charging?
Great question. Anderson power poles are a common electrical connector system used in 12v applications such as amaetur radios, robotics, RC planes, and even some data centers. It’s one of the more ideal systems for mobile radios. While it might be new to you, there are actually a wide range of adapters and connectors that can give you a lot of flexibility, such as charging your radio through common solar panel systems or charging directly from your vehicle.
If your RGB came with two anderson ports (a red+black combo at the top, and a red+black combo at the bottom) you will have a silver mark on the active Anderson Power Poles used for charging. You can also see the contact pins inside the port that indicate which one is active. The anderson power pole adapter that you purchase for your battery charge controller will plug right in as follows:
What antenna should I buy?
Something that is rated for at least 25W!
I have a full write-up on how to build your own field antenna here. It’s packable and portable, perfect for the Go box.
Another antenna I recommend is the Ed Fong DBJ-2 (ham) dual band roll up antenna kit. It can be easily rolled up for storage, then hoisted up in a tree for better range.
If you’re looking for a simple whip antenna, you should check out the 19” Nagoya UT-72. It’s rated for 80W and comes with a mag mount base to easily attach to your vehicle’s roof or other metal structure.
Warning: Do not key up your radio or transmit without antenna or dummy load attached.
Why does my Go Box look slightly different than the picture?
Sometimes parts vary depending on availability (especially buttons, Push-To-Talks, and Andersen terminals). Only the best parts are used in these radio boxes, and the variations do not result in compromised quality or lesser performance.
Didn’t see your question answered above? Feel free to send me a DM and i’ll add it to the list.
